During the first full week of May (May 3-8, to be exact), I accepted an invitation to travel to the city of Ivano-Frankivs'k, way on the other side of Ukraine from where I am residing in Poltava. I travelled with Chris Lowe, a Peace Corps volunteer stationed in Poltava. We were both invited to present at the PreCarpathian University in Ivano-Frankivs'k by fellow Fulbright scholar Martha Kuchar and Molly Smith with the Peace Corps there. I was grateful for the English-speaking company on the 20+ hr. train ride to get there. Plus Chris speaks Ukrainian rather well, and this helped immensely with logistics.
We caught a train leaving Poltava at 10:30 PM, and were glad that we did not have to share the four bunk sleeper compartment with others. The nice thing about catching a train that late is that once you have settled in, have something to eat and drink, it's easy to just crash.
I awoke the next morning at 9:00 AM which surprised me, but sleeping on trains is not new to me having done so many times, many years ago. We had time to have both breakfast and lunch from the stash of food I brought and the train pulled into the Lviv train station at 2:40. Our train to Ivano-Frankivs'k left at 3:20 PM, so it was a nice, fast connection. (I must say that so far I have been VERY impressed by the timeliness of the Ukranian railways - they always seem to be right on time.)
We got to Ivano at 6:40 PM and were greeted by my Fulbright colleague, Martha, at the station. I caught a bus to the hotel they had reserved for me while Chris went to stay with another Peace Corps volunteer in Ivano. We met up for pizza at 8:00 PM, and I had the closest thing I have tasted to a real Italian pizza at a pizzeria named "Pizza Peperoncino". Sitting outside eating a real wood-fired brick oven-baked pizza after the grueling train ride was like waking up in Wonderland. Needless to say, I slept great that night.
The next morning, after eating at a sumptuous breakfast buffet, Martha and Chris met me at the Hotel Nadia (in case you ever go there) at 10:00 AM whereupon we embarked on a brief tour of the town. You can see pictures of the entire visit here. Suffice it to say that Ivano-Frankivs'k is a very different place than Poltava, and much of the city centre is quite charming.
After a light lunch, we went to the University where, after negotiating a labyrinth of hallways, we located the computer lab graciously lent to us for my presentation/workshop. A few issues appeared right away - first, there was no projector or screen from which to project my PowerPoint (there was also no whiteboard or any board, for that matter). Next, the laptop eventually provided did not have MS Office 2007 on it, so my presentation was translated via OpenOffice (note: do NOT attempt this). Then I discovered that the computers in the lab had varying configurations for Internet browsing - some having Internet Explorer, others with only FireFox or - Opera! Needless to say, it took a while to get things up-and-running and, oh, did I mention? The lab had no ventilation and it was sweltering hot. Now, some of you know that I can sweat standing still in a snowstorm, so it soon appeared that I was in a sauna - which, in essence, I was. But things went reasonably well, eventually, and we all ended up going to a nice outdoor spot in a beautiful park for a few refreshing beers. After that we were joined by a few others as we dined in a very fancy place with excellent traditional Ukrainian food. Unfortunately, this eatery had us sitting in a small private room which, after a while, became sweltering hot. After finishing the sumptuous multi-course meal, I really needed fresh air and had to excuse myself, but fortunately was joined by Molly and Chris and enjoyed the walk back to the hotel in the very welcome fresh air. Part of my problem is that I never eat three full meals in one day, so my discomfort was likely due to "train lag" coupled with the notable humidity in Ivano, plus more food than I would normally consume in two days! But I survived, and sat by the beautiful fountain outside the hotel for a while to get additional fresh air before heading to my room.
The next day I took my time getting up, going for a walk around the city center again, and avoiding any food, as I really had enough nourishment for a couple of days in me! I felt great as I met up with Martha at the University early enough for me to open every window in the computer lab letting in the cool breeze, and allowing the "sauna lab" to cool down prior to my workshop. As I started the workshop, the staff started closing the windows, which of course I protested, but was followed by the two air conditioning wall units being activated. I attempted to say that the breeze was fine and was a lot cheaper, but that was that; AC on, windows closed. I really have a hard time understanding Ukrainians sometimes...
The workshop went a lot better, as I had "downgraded" my PowerPoint to the 2003 version, but there were still issues with the Internet connection, and various glitches while students attempted to create Google accounts. But it went really well after all, because with Martha's great recommendations, we managed to get some real products started.
Afterwards, the University's English language department, where Martha and Molly work, gave us all a great reception in their office with food and beverages, and gratitude and toasts all around. We all went to change, rest, etc. before regrouping near the city center fountain for a few beers, then to a fantastic place (Legenda-Centre) recommended by Molly atop a very modern building: outdoors, with a terrific view of the city from above, and with excellent food and my favorite Ukranian wine (Crimean Bastardo - yeah, I know).
The next day it was travel time again, so after a light helping at the breakfast buffet, I made my way to the train station and met up with Chris, who was travelling only to Lviv this time, meeting other Peace Corps volunteers and sharing an apartment over the weekend.
I had four hours to kill at the Lviv train station, but fortunately, there were two waiting areas: one, a traditional waiting room, the other with a large video jukebox and a full bar with food in the middle of it! As there were only three little tables there, I waited until one was available and then parked myself for the next three-and-a-half hours, reading while sneaking sandwiches I had already made and ordering one beer per hour to avoid appearing ungrateful for the great sitting place.
At 4:00 PM I worked my way over to the appropriate track, and waited for my train, which was already there, to open the doors. At 4:30 I was in my compartment, and could not believe how plush it was! Knowing that I would be travelling on my own I had booked the "deluxe" compartment which meant that I would be able to spend the next almost 16 hrs. in a very nice space indeed. It smelled nice, I had the whole thing to myself, and it even had air conditioning. Still, 15+ hours is a LONG time, and I was glad that I had something to read and an iPod to listen to during that time.
I arrived at 8:40 AM in Poltava, and I was very happy to be back "home" but I was also very surprised to hear thunder as I arrived (the first time since I had been here) and watching the spring rain come down outside my window...
We caught a train leaving Poltava at 10:30 PM, and were glad that we did not have to share the four bunk sleeper compartment with others. The nice thing about catching a train that late is that once you have settled in, have something to eat and drink, it's easy to just crash.
I awoke the next morning at 9:00 AM which surprised me, but sleeping on trains is not new to me having done so many times, many years ago. We had time to have both breakfast and lunch from the stash of food I brought and the train pulled into the Lviv train station at 2:40. Our train to Ivano-Frankivs'k left at 3:20 PM, so it was a nice, fast connection. (I must say that so far I have been VERY impressed by the timeliness of the Ukranian railways - they always seem to be right on time.)
We got to Ivano at 6:40 PM and were greeted by my Fulbright colleague, Martha, at the station. I caught a bus to the hotel they had reserved for me while Chris went to stay with another Peace Corps volunteer in Ivano. We met up for pizza at 8:00 PM, and I had the closest thing I have tasted to a real Italian pizza at a pizzeria named "Pizza Peperoncino". Sitting outside eating a real wood-fired brick oven-baked pizza after the grueling train ride was like waking up in Wonderland. Needless to say, I slept great that night.
The next morning, after eating at a sumptuous breakfast buffet, Martha and Chris met me at the Hotel Nadia (in case you ever go there) at 10:00 AM whereupon we embarked on a brief tour of the town. You can see pictures of the entire visit here. Suffice it to say that Ivano-Frankivs'k is a very different place than Poltava, and much of the city centre is quite charming.
After a light lunch, we went to the University where, after negotiating a labyrinth of hallways, we located the computer lab graciously lent to us for my presentation/workshop. A few issues appeared right away - first, there was no projector or screen from which to project my PowerPoint (there was also no whiteboard or any board, for that matter). Next, the laptop eventually provided did not have MS Office 2007 on it, so my presentation was translated via OpenOffice (note: do NOT attempt this). Then I discovered that the computers in the lab had varying configurations for Internet browsing - some having Internet Explorer, others with only FireFox or - Opera! Needless to say, it took a while to get things up-and-running and, oh, did I mention? The lab had no ventilation and it was sweltering hot. Now, some of you know that I can sweat standing still in a snowstorm, so it soon appeared that I was in a sauna - which, in essence, I was. But things went reasonably well, eventually, and we all ended up going to a nice outdoor spot in a beautiful park for a few refreshing beers. After that we were joined by a few others as we dined in a very fancy place with excellent traditional Ukrainian food. Unfortunately, this eatery had us sitting in a small private room which, after a while, became sweltering hot. After finishing the sumptuous multi-course meal, I really needed fresh air and had to excuse myself, but fortunately was joined by Molly and Chris and enjoyed the walk back to the hotel in the very welcome fresh air. Part of my problem is that I never eat three full meals in one day, so my discomfort was likely due to "train lag" coupled with the notable humidity in Ivano, plus more food than I would normally consume in two days! But I survived, and sat by the beautiful fountain outside the hotel for a while to get additional fresh air before heading to my room.
The next day I took my time getting up, going for a walk around the city center again, and avoiding any food, as I really had enough nourishment for a couple of days in me! I felt great as I met up with Martha at the University early enough for me to open every window in the computer lab letting in the cool breeze, and allowing the "sauna lab" to cool down prior to my workshop. As I started the workshop, the staff started closing the windows, which of course I protested, but was followed by the two air conditioning wall units being activated. I attempted to say that the breeze was fine and was a lot cheaper, but that was that; AC on, windows closed. I really have a hard time understanding Ukrainians sometimes...
The workshop went a lot better, as I had "downgraded" my PowerPoint to the 2003 version, but there were still issues with the Internet connection, and various glitches while students attempted to create Google accounts. But it went really well after all, because with Martha's great recommendations, we managed to get some real products started.
Afterwards, the University's English language department, where Martha and Molly work, gave us all a great reception in their office with food and beverages, and gratitude and toasts all around. We all went to change, rest, etc. before regrouping near the city center fountain for a few beers, then to a fantastic place (Legenda-Centre) recommended by Molly atop a very modern building: outdoors, with a terrific view of the city from above, and with excellent food and my favorite Ukranian wine (Crimean Bastardo - yeah, I know).
The next day it was travel time again, so after a light helping at the breakfast buffet, I made my way to the train station and met up with Chris, who was travelling only to Lviv this time, meeting other Peace Corps volunteers and sharing an apartment over the weekend.
I had four hours to kill at the Lviv train station, but fortunately, there were two waiting areas: one, a traditional waiting room, the other with a large video jukebox and a full bar with food in the middle of it! As there were only three little tables there, I waited until one was available and then parked myself for the next three-and-a-half hours, reading while sneaking sandwiches I had already made and ordering one beer per hour to avoid appearing ungrateful for the great sitting place.
At 4:00 PM I worked my way over to the appropriate track, and waited for my train, which was already there, to open the doors. At 4:30 I was in my compartment, and could not believe how plush it was! Knowing that I would be travelling on my own I had booked the "deluxe" compartment which meant that I would be able to spend the next almost 16 hrs. in a very nice space indeed. It smelled nice, I had the whole thing to myself, and it even had air conditioning. Still, 15+ hours is a LONG time, and I was glad that I had something to read and an iPod to listen to during that time.
I arrived at 8:40 AM in Poltava, and I was very happy to be back "home" but I was also very surprised to hear thunder as I arrived (the first time since I had been here) and watching the spring rain come down outside my window...
No comments:
Post a Comment